$38.50 U.S. (short discount)
No e-book has been authorized.
Softcover with gatefold flaps
400 pages with 35 maps and 26 photographs
7.0″ x 9.0″ upright/portrait
ISBN: 978-1-938086-47-2
Published in January 2017
Distributed by University of Virginia Press
www.upress.virginia.edu
No e-book has been authorized.
by William C. Tweed and Lary M. Dilsaver
Originally published in 1990, this is a fully updated and greatly expanded version of the best-selling history of these two California national parks.
First published in 1990, this updated and enlarged edition of Challenge of the Big Trees stands as the new definitive history of Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. Located in the southern Sierra Nevada of California, these twin parks preserve an astounding sweep of natural and cultural resources, including not only the world’s largest trees, but also some of the most spectacular mountain terrain to be found anywhere on Earth.
Challenge of the Big Trees traces the origins of the two parks in 1890 and then chronicles how they came into their own during the early years of the twentieth century. Because the two adjoining parks date back to the very beginning of the national park movement, their story illustrates the larger narrative of nature preservation in the United States. The many challenges faced over time in the management of these two parks bring to life the difficulties of protecting wildlands and natural resources everywhere.
This new edition brings the story of Sequoia and Kings Canyon up to 2016 and the centennial of the National Park Service. It documents the big changes made in the parks since 1990 and addresses the myriad challenges the parks still face, including climate change and evolving social attitudes toward nature. The book also features numerous historic photographs and custom maps that allow readers to understand how this important story has played out on the ground. Challenge of the Big Trees is a book every visitor to Sequoia and Kings Canyon and every aficionado of national parks will want to read and add to their library.
About
About the Authors
William C. Tweed has studied, researched, and explored Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks for nearly forty years as a writer, park ranger, and Chief Park Naturalist. Since 1997, he has written more than 400 essays about nature in central California in a column for the Visalia Times-Delta newspaper. He is also the author of Uncertain Path: A Search for the Future of National Parks (University of California Press, 2010), Death Valley and the Northern Mojave: A Visitor’s Guide, with Lauren Davis (Cachuma Press, 2003), Exploring Mountain Highways: A Road Guide to Sequoia and Kings Canyons National Parks (Sequoia Natural History Association, 1984), and Sequoia and Kings Canyon: The Story behind the Scenery (KC Publications, 1980; VistaBooks, 1997).
Lary M. Dilsaver, a native Californian, is Professor Emeritus of Historical Geography at the University of South Alabama and a thirty-year volunteer researcher for the National Park Service. He has written more than forty articles and book chapters on national parks and historic landscapes, and he has authored or edited six books, including Preserving the Desert: The History of Joshua Tree National Park (George F. Thompson Publishing, 2016), America’s National Park System: The Critical Documents (Rowman and Littlefield, 1994; 2016), and Cumberland Island National Seashore: A History of Conservation Conflict (University of Virginia Press, 2004).
Slide Show
The Sierra Club, originally a mountaineering club based in the San Francisco Bay Area of California, began its program of annual outings into the High Sierra in 1901. In subsequent years, many of these month-long trips included the Sequoia and Kings Canyon region. Participants in these trips often became determined advocates for the protection of the Southern Sierra. Photographer and date unknown. 
From its founding in 1916, the National Park Service sought to market the national parks and monuments under its management by finding ways to make them interesting to visitors. The giant sequoia that became the Auto Log fell in 1917 and was promptly outfitted with a ramp that allowed visitors to drive their automobiles onto the surface of the fallen monarch. Photographer and date unknown. 
Following instructions provided by Captain Charles Young (later a colonel), the U.S. Army began an effort in 1903 to protect some of the most famous individual trees in the twin parks. Fences were erected around both the General Grant (shown here) and General Sherman Trees to keep visitors a few yards away from the trees. On March 25, 2013, President Barack Obama designated the Charles Young Buffalo Soldiers National Monument to commemorate the leader of the African-American military whose duties included protection of Sequoia National Park as acting superintendent. Photographer and date unknown. 
The first commercial “village” in the Giant Forest had developed adjacent to Round Meadow when this photograph by Lindley Eddy was taken in 1920. After the Generals Highway opened in 1926, many of these buildings were moved to the new village site one-quarter mile away. At the time, visitors parked and camped wherever they wished among the giant sequoia trees. 
Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks preserve many natural and cultural resources, but they owe much of their fame to the presence of the world’s largest trees–the giant sequoias (Sequoiadendron giganteum). This 1936 view of the California Tree only hints at the size of the biggest trees. Photograph by George A. Grant, of the National Park Service, October 18, 1936. 
The development of ranger-guided walks to educate visitors “properly” began during the early 1920s and immediately became extremely popular. One of the most desirable walks accessed Moro Rock, where workers replaced an earlier wooden structure with nearly 800 feet of steps carved into the granite in 1931. Landscape architect Merel Sager and engineer Frank Diehl designed the new stairway to blend into the natural scenery. Photographer and date unknown. 
Moro Rock is a towering dome of granite, an igneous rock formed from magma that cooled and solidified beneath the surface. Weathering and erosion exposed it to the surface, and exfoliation began whereby sheets of material peeled off like layers of an onion. At an elevation of 6,725 feet, it provides outstanding views of the Great Western Divide of the Sierra Nevada to the east and, on clear days, more than 100 miles of the San Joaquin Valley and the Coast Ranges to the west. Photographer and date unknown. 
Not even giant sequoias live forever. Each Big Tree eventually crashes to the ground, creating a roar that echoes through the forest like thunder. Without the park ranger in this photograph, taken after this tree near the Congress Trail fell in 1964, it would be difficult to grasp the overall size of the log. Photographer and date unknown. 
The Sierra Club, originally a mountaineering club based in the San Francisco Bay Area of California, began its program of annual outings into the High Sierra in 1901. In subsequent years, many of these month-long trips included the Sequoia and Kings Canyon region. Participants in these trips often became determined advocates for the protection of the Southern Sierra. Photographer and date unknown.From its founding in 1916, the National Park Service sought to market the national parks and monuments under its management by finding ways to make them interesting to visitors. The giant sequoia that became the Auto Log fell in 1917 and was promptly outfitted with a ramp that allowed visitors to drive their automobiles onto the surface of the fallen monarch. Photographer and date unknown.Following instructions provided by Captain Charles Young (later a colonel), the U.S. Army began an effort in 1903 to protect some of the most famous individual trees in the twin parks. Fences were erected around both the General Grant (shown here) and General Sherman Trees to keep visitors a few yards away from the trees. On March 25, 2013, President Barack Obama designated the Charles Young Buffalo Soldiers National Monument to commemorate the leader of the African-American military whose duties included protection of Sequoia National Park as acting superintendent. Photographer and date unknown.The first commercial “village” in the Giant Forest had developed adjacent to Round Meadow when this photograph by Lindley Eddy was taken in 1920. After the Generals Highway opened in 1926, many of these buildings were moved to the new village site one-quarter mile away. At the time, visitors parked and camped wherever they wished among the giant sequoia trees.Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks preserve many natural and cultural resources, but they owe much of their fame to the presence of the world’s largest trees–the giant sequoias (Sequoiadendron giganteum). This 1936 view of the California Tree only hints at the size of the biggest trees. Photograph by George A. Grant, of the National Park Service, October 18, 1936.The development of ranger-guided walks to educate visitors “properly” began during the early 1920s and immediately became extremely popular. One of the most desirable walks accessed Moro Rock, where workers replaced an earlier wooden structure with nearly 800 feet of steps carved into the granite in 1931. Landscape architect Merel Sager and engineer Frank Diehl designed the new stairway to blend into the natural scenery. Photographer and date unknown.Moro Rock is a towering dome of granite, an igneous rock formed from magma that cooled and solidified beneath the surface. Weathering and erosion exposed it to the surface, and exfoliation began whereby sheets of material peeled off like layers of an onion. At an elevation of 6,725 feet, it provides outstanding views of the Great Western Divide of the Sierra Nevada to the east and, on clear days, more than 100 miles of the San Joaquin Valley and the Coast Ranges to the west. Photographer and date unknown.Not even giant sequoias live forever. Each Big Tree eventually crashes to the ground, creating a roar that echoes through the forest like thunder. Without the park ranger in this photograph, taken after this tree near the Congress Trail fell in 1964, it would be difficult to grasp the overall size of the log. Photographer and date unknown.Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks protect the scenic heart of the High Sierra, a wonderland of high peaks and stunning glacial gorges. This photograph of LeConte Canyon and the Middle Fork of the Kings River by Richard Frear, of the National Park Service, taken in the 1970s, captures the essence this spectacular region. 
The Sierra Club, originally a mountaineering club based in the San Francisco Bay Area of California, began its program of annual outings into the High Sierra in 1901. In subsequent years, many of these month-long trips included the Sequoia and Kings Canyon region. Participants in these trips often became determined advocates for the protection of the Southern Sierra. Photographer and date unknown.From its founding in 1916, the National Park Service sought to market the national parks and monuments under its management by finding ways to make them interesting to visitors. The giant sequoia that became the Auto Log fell in 1917 and was promptly outfitted with a ramp that allowed visitors to drive their automobiles onto the surface of the fallen monarch. Photographer and date unknown.Following instructions provided by Captain Charles Young (later a colonel), the U.S. Army began an effort in 1903 to protect some of the most famous individual trees in the twin parks. Fences were erected around both the General Grant (shown here) and General Sherman Trees to keep visitors a few yards away from the trees. On March 25, 2013, President Barack Obama designated the Charles Young Buffalo Soldiers National Monument to commemorate the leader of the African-American military whose duties included protection of Sequoia National Park as acting superintendent. Photographer and date unknown.The first commercial “village” in the Giant Forest had developed adjacent to Round Meadow when this photograph by Lindley Eddy was taken in 1920. After the Generals Highway opened in 1926, many of these buildings were moved to the new village site one-quarter mile away. At the time, visitors parked and camped wherever they wished among the giant sequoia trees.Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks preserve many natural and cultural resources, but they owe much of their fame to the presence of the world’s largest trees–the giant sequoias (Sequoiadendron giganteum). This 1936 view of the California Tree only hints at the size of the biggest trees. Photograph by George A. Grant, of the National Park Service, October 18, 1936.The development of ranger-guided walks to educate visitors “properly” began during the early 1920s and immediately became extremely popular. One of the most desirable walks accessed Moro Rock, where workers replaced an earlier wooden structure with nearly 800 feet of steps carved into the granite in 1931. Landscape architect Merel Sager and engineer Frank Diehl designed the new stairway to blend into the natural scenery. Photographer and date unknown.Moro Rock is a towering dome of granite, an igneous rock formed from magma that cooled and solidified beneath the surface. Weathering and erosion exposed it to the surface, and exfoliation began whereby sheets of material peeled off like layers of an onion. At an elevation of 6,725 feet, it provides outstanding views of the Great Western Divide of the Sierra Nevada to the east and, on clear days, more than 100 miles of the San Joaquin Valley and the Coast Ranges to the west. Photographer and date unknown.Not even giant sequoias live forever. Each Big Tree eventually crashes to the ground, creating a roar that echoes through the forest like thunder. Without the park ranger in this photograph, taken after this tree near the Congress Trail fell in 1964, it would be difficult to grasp the overall size of the log. Photographer and date unknown.Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks protect the scenic heart of the High Sierra, a wonderland of high peaks and stunning glacial gorges. This photograph of LeConte Canyon and the Middle Fork of the Kings River by Richard Frear, of the National Park Service, taken in the 1970s, captures the essence this spectacular region.Tehipite Dome, at 7,708 feet elevation, rises more than 3,500 feet above the Middle Fork of the Kings River. It is the largest dome in the Sierra Nevada and towers over another glacially carved canyon that is similar to the South Fork of the Kings River and Yosemite Valley. Tehipite Dome is located well within the official wilderness area of Kings Canyon National Park and is approachable only by hikers, climbers, and equestrian parties. The exposed North Ridge is a Class 3 ascent to the summit, compared with a technical rating of 5.9 and higher for ascents from the south. Photographer and date unknown. 
The physical extent of the High Sierra, as captured by Richard Frear, of the National Park Service, in the 1970s, gives Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks much of their character. A backpacker can wander for weeks on the twin parks’ 700-plus miles of wilderness trails. The photograph shows the Sphinx and Kaweah Basin, looking southwest from Kern Point. 
Civilian superintendents under the supervision of the Secretary of the Interior have overseen Sequoia, General Grant, and Kings Canyon National Parks since 1914. Prior to that time, officers from the U.S. Army managed the parks. In this photograph, Superintendent Thomas J. Ritter (1989–1994) takes a break after riding to the summit of Franklin Pass east of Mineral King in Sequoia National Park. Photograph by William C. Tweed, 1990. 
Managers at Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks have done their best to document levels of visitation since the very earliest days of the parks. Since the late nineteenth century, levels of visitor use have risen from a few hundred persons per year to more than a million. No other location in the two parks draws as many visitors as does the General Sherman Tree in the Giant Forest of Sequoia National Park. Photograph by William C. Tweed, 1985. 
Although known primarily for the giant sequoias, the twin national parks of the southern Sierra Nevada preserve countless other life-forms. Among the most spectacular are the foxtail pines (Pinus balfouriana) that cling to the high, rocky ridges of the southernmost end of the High Sierra. Growing resolutely upward in a region where most other woody plants hug the ground, foxtails often endure for a thousand years or more before they succumb to the elements. Even in death, they add beauty to the landscape. Photograph by William C. Tweed, 1997.
Praise
“As I look back over my nearly forty years of national park experiences, I can reflect both on our accomplishments of the past and our challenges into the future. We need periodic reminders, like this fine book, of how far we have come, most often the result of dedicated citizens and professionals. We also need inspiration and optimism that we will succeed in caring for these special places. Within these pages I invite you to wander but, more importantly, to spend time with the Big Trees, for they have seen many challenges, and yet they still stand.”
—Jonathan B. Jarvis, Director, National Park Service
“Well written and meticulously researched, the book provides a detailed chronological history of the key actors, events, and policy initiatives that shaped conservation management in both parks.” (read the full review here, pdf)
—Randall K. Wilson, Gettysburg College, Journal of Historical Geography 64 (2019) 104-120
“Big Trees and the Giant Forest, Kings Canyon and Mineral King, Mt. Whitney and Mt. Brewer, Muir Pass and the Kaweah Basin—una gran Sierra Nevada—could features within two national parks possibly bear a more superlative and emphatic body of names? Looming above California’s southern San Joaquin Valley and annually hosting more than 1,500,000 visitors, Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks preserve precious natural and cultural resources, from groves of giant sequoia and historic CCC camps to grizzly bear ghosts and the utopian Kaweah Colony. Contested landscapes for more than 125 years, the spectacular sites in these twin parks are very much under siege, ever so capably documented in this book’s historical photographs, clean maps, and fine prose.”
—Paul F. Starrs, Professor of Geography, University of Nevada, Reno, and author of Let the Cowboy Ride: Cattle Ranching in the American West and, with photographs by Peter Goin, Black Rock
“The policies, principles, and practices that have shaped America’s national park system frequently emerged first in individual parks. In this welcome new addition of their previous exploration, Tweed and Dilsaver demonstrate the underappreciated and critical role that these southern Sierra Nevada parks and their surrounding landscapes played in the evolution of the nation’s protected areas. Moreover, they do so with an engaging and thought-provoking style that will appeal to a wide range of readers.”
—Terence Young, Professor of Geography, California State Polytechnic University, Pomona, and author of Heading Out: A History of American Camping and Building San Francisco’s Parks, 1850–1930
My Place
More than half a century ago as a very young man, I discovered the trails of California’s High Sierra—the great alpine wilderness of the Sierra Nevada. A lifetime later, I still wander the region’s high-country pathways each summer—slower now but even more entranced by the landscapes and stories they share.
Fifty-plus years represent more than enough time to develop a few High Sierra habits, and I’ve come to recognize one in particular. I never seem to go too long without returning to one particular campsite in the wilderness. The six miles of trail that lead me to Alta Meadow climb about 2,000 feet, just enough to give me some sense of accomplishment and separate me from what Edward Abbey long ago called “industrial tourism.” The journey now takes me about four hours—walking time spent breathing rhythmically, sweating profusely, and watching the panorama around me grow to almost indescribable magnitude.
If you’ve never been to Alta Meadow but know the High Sierra, you will imagine the meadow as something it is not. Most sub-alpine meadows in the Sierra occupy confined forest glades, places tucked into the trees. Alta Meadow allows for none of that. Instead, it occupies an open bench on the upper slopes of one of the Sierra’s greatest river canyons. My campsite, tucked in a weather-battered copse of red fir trees some 9,000 feet above the sea, is a full 6,000 feet above the incised granite course of the Middle Fork of the Kaweah River. Above me, the helmet-like summit of Alta Peak rises another 2,000 vertical feet. Light and space surround me.
The view, you might ask, What can you see? From the meadow, the full sweep of the great amphitheater that forms the headwaters of Middle Fork wraps around me. Everything that can be found within Sequoia National Park finds illustration here: serrated peaks, great glacial canyons, granite domes, endless forested ridges, chaparral-encrusted lower canyons. If I look in just the right places, the domed crowns of giant sequoia trees rise out of distant forests and mark the locations of the national park’s famous groves of Big Trees.
Usually, I have the meadow to myself. Most Sierra hikers seek out either lakes or mountain summits, and this magic spot happily offers neither. Usually, the loudest sound is the wind in the western white pines.
Habit and long experience tell me how best to enjoy this wonderful place. I seek out my favorite rocks—boulders with views—and sit. The hours pass easily. Shadows shift, afternoon clouds build up and dissipate, deer wander into the meadow as evening approaches to nibble on the foliage. Every so often I move to another rock.
The recipe is simple: hike, sit, absorb; repeat as often as required.